The country journal

2 stops, one unfolding story.

We divided our week in Cambodia between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. At Siem Reap we stayed at Shinta Mani and gave Angkor several days rather than trying to compress it into one. In Phnom Penh we stayed at the Plantation and shifted from ancient temples to the capital’s museums, riverfront and performance.

01 / Siem Reap and Angkor

Siem Reap & Angkor

We gave Angkor several days, enough to see much more than Angkor Wat. I had wanted to visit for 30 years, and it became one of the highlights of the trip; we could have spent several more weeks exploring. We also visited Ta Prohm, where tree roots wrap through the stone, along with the faces, gates and long carved galleries of the larger temple complex. Starting early helped with the heat. We were surprised by how few tourists we saw—sometimes we had a temple almost to ourselves. The border dispute with Thailand had clearly hurt tourism in Cambodia that season.

02 / Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh showed us a different Cambodia: the Mekong waterfront, museums, Khmer sculpture, a classical performance and a busy modern capital. Staying at the Plantation gave us a convenient base for exploring the city.

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